Rabbit Diet: Is Your Rabbit Eating Right?

I used to think feeding a rabbit was simple—greens here, a pellet there, a carrot on weekends because cartoons told me so. Then I brought a hay rack into the quiet corner by the window and watched what truly nourishes: the warm, grassy scent rising from a fresh flake, the steady rhythm of chewing, the way a small body settles when the gut is content. Feeding a rabbit is not a sprinkle of salad; it is a daily conversation with fiber, water, and time.

This is the guide I wish I had at the beginning: gentle, practical, and grounded in what companion rabbits need to thrive. I will keep my hands steady and my language clear. You will hear why hay stands first, how to use pellets wisely, which greens bring life without belly drama, why fruit lives in the “joy” column, and how a strange little thing called a cecotrope completes the circle.

Why Hay Comes First, Always

Hay is not garnish. For an adult rabbit, long-strand grass hay—timothy, orchard, meadow, brome, or oat—should be the bulk of the diet. Those springy strands do two essential jobs: they keep teeth worn by providing abrasion with every chew, and they keep the hindgut moving by delivering indigestible fiber that maintains healthy motility. A rabbit who lives on grass hay lives with a gut that hums.

Legume hays like alfalfa and clover are richer in protein and calcium. They have a place in special seasons—growing youngsters, pregnant or nursing mothers, or a senior who is struggling to maintain weight under veterinary guidance—but for a healthy adult, legume hays are too much of a good thing. I keep them in the “sometimes” drawer, not the main pantry.

My daily habit is simple: I offer hay as landscape, not as a token. I refresh before the rack runs bare, tuck a pile near the litter pan (rabbits like to munch while they potty), and choose bales that smell like a field after sun. Sweet, grassy, low dust—that’s the signal my rabbit and I both trust.

• Quantity: Unlimited—always available, always fresh.
• Quality: Springy strands, grassy aroma, minimal dust or brown crumble.
• Placement tip: Hay beside the litter box turns bathroom time into fiber time.

Water Is the Quiet Medicine

Fiber only works if water is there to carry it. A heavy ceramic bowl helps many rabbits drink more than a sipper bottle; I often provide both so thirst is never blocked by a sticky ball bearing. I refresh daily (twice in hot weather) and place the bowl where hay dust won’t turn it into soup. Think of the gut as a river: hay is the raft, water is the current. Keep both moving and the ride stays smooth.

When I increase hay or reduce pellets, I pay extra attention to hydration. Crisp greens help, but nothing replaces a clean bowl within easy reach. A rabbit that drinks well is a rabbit whose gut can keep its rhythm.

Pellets, Measured and Plain

Pellets were designed to grow rabbits fast for breeding and labs. Our house rabbits need a different story: slow, steady nourishment with fiber in the lead. I choose a timothy-based, uniform nugget—no seeds, corn, or colorful bits—that lists fiber at or above the teens and keeps protein and calcium modest.

A good pellet for most adult rabbits looks like this on the label: fiber ≥ 18–20%, protein ~12–14%, fat ≤ 2–3%, calcium ≤ ~1%. Then I measure. I begin with a small daily portion and let my rabbit’s body condition, energy, and poops tell me what to do next. If cecotropes start showing up uneaten and sticky, that’s my cue to cut back.

Portion guides vary because rabbits vary, but a sensible starting window is modest and consistent. I would rather feed less pellet and more hay than the other way around; the gut thanks me for that choice.

• By weight: roughly 15–25 g per kg of ideal body weight daily, divided once or twice.
• By kitchen measure: about 1/8–1/4 cup per 5 lb (2.25 kg) per day.
• Rule of simplicity: if hay intake is excellent, many vets endorse ~1 tablespoon per rabbit daily (twice daily for very large bunnies).

Warm light fills the room as the rabbit eats calmly.

Leafy Greens Without Belly Drama

Greens add moisture, micronutrients, and variety. I aim for a colorful rotation rather than a mountain of a single leaf. For an average adult, about 1–2 cups of mixed leafy greens per 4–5 lb (1.8–2.3 kg) daily is a practical range. I wash well, shake dry, and serve when my rabbit is alert and curious, not frantic with hunger.

Darker lettuces are my anchors—romaine, green or red leaf—supported by herbs like cilantro, parsley, basil, mint, or dill. Endive, escarole, radicchio, bok choy, fennel fronds, wheatgrass, and carrot tops round out the week. Cruciferous leaves (kale, small amounts of cabbage family greens) can be fine in moderation; I simply watch for gas or softer stools and adjust.

For the very young, I introduce greens one at a time after roughly three months, keeping notes like a gentle scientist. If poops soften, I pause and try again later. The gut learns; I just listen.

• Staples to rotate: romaine, leaf lettuces, cilantro, parsley, basil, mint, dill.
• Also lovely: endive/escarole, radicchio, bok choy, fennel fronds, wheatgrass, carrot tops.
• Go slow: kale and other crucifers in modest amounts, watching tolerance.

Fruit and Treats: Joy in Tiny Portions

Fruit is candy in rabbit language. I keep it special and small so the cecal community stays balanced. A practical ceiling is about 1 teaspoon of fresh fruit per 2 lb (0.9 kg) of body weight—and not every day. Dried fruit is concentrated sugar; I either trim to a third of that portion or skip it entirely.

Seeds and pits must be removed. I prefer soft berries, a bite of apple (no seeds), pear (no seeds), peach (no pit), mango, papaya, or pineapple. The sweetness is a love note, not fuel.

Young rabbits under about three months get no fruit; I let the gut mature on hay, water, and appropriate pellets first. That patience prevents a lot of messy afternoons.

• Okay in moderation: berries, apple (no seeds), pear (no seeds), peach (no pit), mango, papaya, pineapple.
• Skip or limit: yogurt drops, seed sticks, corn/peas, and high-sugar “crunch” treats.

Cecotropes: The Secret Second Meal

Sometimes, at the edge of the rug, I see my rabbit curve like a comma, take something soft directly from the body, and swallow. That is a cecotrope—glossy, grape-like clusters rich in B vitamins, vitamin K, amino acids, and beneficial microbes. Rabbits ferment fiber in the cecum, package the nutrients, and re-ingest to absorb what hay alone cannot provide. It is not only normal; it is essential.

If I start finding cecotropes left behind—squished, smelly clusters—it usually means the balance is off: too many pellets or sugars, too little fiber, or trouble bending due to pain or obesity. I first trim pellets and treats, groom thoroughly, and make sure the litter area invites easy posture. If it continues, I call a rabbit-savvy vet to check teeth, joints, and gut health.

Life Stages and Special Cases

Not all rabbits are at the same season. I adjust the pantry with the body in front of me instead of a one-size rule. Growth, pregnancy, aging, and medical histories shape the plate, but the foundation never changes: abundant grass hay, steady water, and measured add-ons.

Here is how I think through the common stages before I ever reach for the scoop:

• Babies & adolescents (weaning to ~6–8 months): Unlimited grass hay; many vets allow some alfalfa hay/pellets during rapid growth, tapering toward timothy-based pellets as adult weight approaches. Introduce greens slowly after roughly three months.
• Adults: Grass hay unlimited; modest, high-fiber plain pellets; daily mixed greens; tiny, occasional fruit.
• Seniors: Watch weight and muscle. If losing despite good appetite and teeth, a vet may recommend slightly more pellets or a higher-calorie hay for a season. Hydration and easy-to-chew greens matter more than ever.
• Pregnant/nursing: Higher energy and calcium needs—work closely with a vet. Some alfalfa may be appropriate short-term alongside abundant grass hay and greens.
• Calcium-sensitive rabbits: Emphasize grass hay, measured pellets, lots of water; avoid alfalfa unless medically directed. No mineral blocks.

A Gentle Daily Menu (Example)

This is a calm template I use for an average, healthy adult. I treat it as a starting point and adjust every few weeks based on body condition and the story the litter box tells me.

• All day: Unlimited grass hay in two stations; fresh water in a ceramic bowl (and a bottle backup if you like).
• Morning: Small measured portion of plain timothy-based pellets; a handful of leafy greens (e.g., romaine plus cilantro) rinsed and gently dried.
• Afternoon: Hay refresh and a few stems of a second hay type for variety (orchard or meadow).
• Evening: Another handful of mixed greens (add parsley or endive); a tiny fruit bite on training days as a special reinforcer.

When this rhythm holds, my rabbit’s energy is bright but even, the poops are plentiful and well-formed, and cecotrophy happens quietly—clear signs that the inside story is going well.

Switching Without Tears

If you’re moving away from muesli mixes or oversized pellet portions, change the plate with kindness. I set a two-week horizon, increase hay access, and shift by small percentages so the gut microbiome has time to adapt. The goal is not a crash diet; it is a steady turn toward fiber.

1. Days 1–3: Reduce pellets to the new target portion; double-check hay freshness and placement. Add a modest serving of dark leafy greens if the rabbit already tolerates them well.
2. Days 4–7: Retire colorful mix-ins completely. Keep pellets plain and measured. Offer two hay varieties to spark curiosity.
3. Days 8–14: Hold the line. Watch poops and energy; adjust only if you see soft stools or marked lethargy. Celebrate the first week you refill hay more than pellets—that is the win.

Red Flags That Need a Vet

Rabbits hide discomfort; I do not wait if something feels wrong. These signs earn a same-day call to a rabbit-savvy veterinarian:

• Small, scant, or missing poops; straining; sudden change in poop shape or size.
• Refusal to eat or drink; drooling; tooth grinding; hunched posture.
• Consistent cecotropes left uneaten (“sticky bottom”) despite diet fixes.
• Blood in urine, thick sandy residue, or straining to urinate.
• Rapid weight loss or gain; persistent belly gurgles with discomfort.

Diet is powerful, but it is not a substitute for medical care. Pain control, fluids, and diagnostics save lives; I treat food as the daily support, not the emergency tool.

Closing: Feeding for Calm, Feeding for Life

When I refill the hay and feel that sweet field scent, I remember that most of a rabbit’s health happens in ordinary minutes: a bowl cleaned and topped, a handful of greens rinsed and offered with a quiet voice, a pellet scoop used more like a spice than a staple. This is patient work, but the payoff is visible—steady energy, bright eyes, relaxed breath, and the calm thrum of a gut that trusts you.

So yes, ask the question every morning: “Is my rabbit eating right?” Then let hay answer first, water answer second, and your rabbit’s body answer soon after—with generous poops, soft cecotrophy, and a life that moves without friction.

References

House Rabbit Society. Diet and Feeding Guidelines for Companion Rabbits, 2023.

American College of Veterinary Nutrition. Small Mammal Nutrition Overview, 2022.

Meredith, A. & Flecknell, P. BSAVA Manual of Rabbit Medicine, 2014 (updates in current practice).

RSPCA. Caring for Rabbits: Diet and Nutrition Basics, 2024.

Disclaimer

This article is for general education and is not a substitute for individualized veterinary advice. Rabbits vary by age, health status, and history; consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian for diagnosis or treatment.

If your rabbit stops eating, produces no fecal pellets, or shows signs of pain, contact a veterinarian immediately. Rapid care prevents life-threatening complications.